Contouring And Highlighting Talk Through Tutorial | Chapter 5

everyone welcome back to another Monday makeup lesson today we have moved on to chapter five of my book and chapter five is all about contouring and highlighting but we did talk a little bit about this in Chapter four so make sure you're up-to-date with four and five along with the videos that are in the description box as well but today I'm going to teach you guys how to use this technique to contour and highlight for your face shape so if you are ready let's get started to start with make sure your skin is prepped and ready to go so apply your moisturizer and your primer this will give the makeup something to hold on to and all you need for this routine because it's a cream one is a foundation or concealer a couple of shades lighter and a couple of shades darker and also a concealer brush load up you can see the brush with the shade that you've chosen and you're going to go from the inner corner of the eye down the length of the nose and then up pass the eye towards the temple then draw a line from the inner corner underneath the eye and join up on the outer corner and then fill in this triangle this is the basic triangle for most face shapes if you want to bring your face a little bit longer and maybe to slim it off a little bit more you're just gonna go from the inner corner down the length of the nose and then just on the outer edge of the eye towards the edge of the nose and this will just give you the appearance of a longer thinner face for an extra step I like to go along the edge of the nose and what this does is it kind of blends the edge of your nose with your cheeks this will actually help us contour nose a little bit later if you have a very slender nose you might want to skip this step so now that we have the cheeks ready it's time to move on to the forehead what I do is use the edge of the arch the brow as my guide I draw two lines just above the arch and then draw a line straight across and this is as wide as we want to go with our highlight on our forehead and then to figure out how high we want to bring up our highlight Ashley depends on your forehead the center of your forehead is a great place to start and you can actually then join it up with the arch however if you have a shorter face and you want to elongate it you can actually go a little bit higher and this will really elongate the face by drawing the eyes downwards or if you have a very narrow forehead and you want it to be broader you can actually bring this out to more of a squared shape and this will really highlight the forehead and give it a broader effect now moving on to the nose if you want to broaden your nose you're going to use the flat side of the brush and go all the way down the center of the note if you want to create a thinner nose turn your brush on its sides with a lot thinner and do a very thin line all the way down the center then I like to use a little bit on the edge of the nose this is where hormonal e we have redness so it's nice to get rid of that and I also do the top of the lip and this creates a fuller effect on the lips as well so we get more of a pout and then also on the chin now we do the same thing with the chin as we did with the forehead if you want to broaden it you're going to bring this line all the way across or if you want to lengthen it you're just going to focus on the center part or for an average chin just work on the very tip here and apply a little bit of the highlight and to finish highlighting when you use pretty much whatever is left over on the brush to go underneath the hollow of my cheek and it will lift my cheekbones a little bit more so the hollow is just in here so I can feel for that hollow of my cheek and I'm just going to go underneath it so this is what our highlight looks like and now we're going to move on to contouring I'm using exactly the same brush for this time I've loaded up with a darker shade I'm going to use this to contour my forehead to begin with what we do is we go on the opposite side of the arch so mark in on the other side and then slowly bring it up to warrant the hairline and I'm also going to go across the top of my forehead as well this is because I don't like the height of my forehead but if you want to elongate your face or elongate your forehead don't put any contour up here just to lightly contour the sides if you have a very narrow forehead and you want to broaden it avoid using any contour really you can use a little bit of bronzer just in the hairline but otherwise avoid this step now we're going to add some definition to the edge of the nose if you want to create a thinner nose go as tight as you can towards that highlighted shade so really really close to that highlighter lie a little bit on the tip of the nose too and you can also contour the lips by just going underneath here this will create that little pout effect and give almost the appearance of a shadow because your lips weren't that big now to contour the cheeks you're going to use the top of the ear in the corner of your mouth as a guide place your brush or the side of your hand in between this area I like to just press it a little bit so that I get kind of a line and then I can just follow that exact line with the contour if you're wondering where to stop this line have a look straight on in the mirror and you want to use your pupil as your guide following the line all the way down and that's as far as you want to bring your contour don't bring it anywhere closer to the lips and now to do the jaw line I'm going to literally follow the shape of my face going all along the jaw line and then slightly underneath the chin and I'll kind of curved around the chin as well so we've mapped out our contour and highlight and now it's time to blend so I'm going to use the f20 from blank canvas cosmetics to do this so start off with a lighter shade and using a stippling motion to blend this out so I'm bouncing the brush off and on the skin and this will just disperse a little bit of the product at a time once you feel like you've stippled enough and you want to start blending in the darker shade we're going to use a feathering technique for that so the feathering technique is basically to sweep the product into one another and at the last second you're going to lift the brush off the face this will very lightly blend the two colors together and as you can see I'm pretty much always working upwards this way we will lift the face rather than driving it downwards once we've buffed everything out we can set it with a setting spray or a setting powder and then just apply the rest of our makeup pretty easy especially when you have the diagram in front of you if you don't have the book definitely check out the link in the description box tdo ship worldwide tship everywhere so definitely check out that link and I will see you guys in a video on Friday all my products the night before and a lot of you are the same with highlighter and highlighting what we